Exploring moors, woodlands and plague villages around Bretton (July 2025, Peak District)

This was my fourth trip to the Bretton Hostel which, when it was part of the YHA, was billed as England’s smallest hostel. It was hot on arrival on Friday afternoon so we sat in the garden of the hostel enjoying cups of tea and cider in the afternoon sun before setting off to the Barrell Inn which not only serves great food but must have one of the best views of any pub from the terrace of the valley below.

Sadly woke up to drizzle on Saturday morning but that’s British summer weather!  Cathy led a 10 mile circuit from the hostel north across Abney Moor with another great view opening up for us as we walked east towards Hathersage.  The afternoon was a change of scenery as we wove in and out of woodland,  across old packhorse bridges and down into Bretton Clough, where we fought through bracken and brambles back to the Bretton Inn for a well-earned beer.

Natalia took herself off round Eyam Moor to find a stone circle marked on the map. It turned out to be a good navigation practice opportunity with only once having to turn on the GPS to find out where she was – she blames the head-height bracken and lack of visibility! Having expected a mini Stonehenge, she was somewhat disappointed to arrive & find a ring of piled stones, but the nearby sign informing walkers that it was a scheduled historical monument (a barrow) made up for the suspicion it was a modern creation.

Meanwhile, Catriona led a lovely 12 mile walk south from the hostel to Monsal Head (which they told us was 13.7 miles, not that we’re competitive). Not deterred by a footpath closed for repairs for 7 years we set off over the fields. Walking through Cressbook Dale, there was a lovely stroll past cows, Peter’s Stone (a circular limestone dome) and a tranquil forest. At Cressbrook Mill, crossing the weir, we headed up to up to the Monsal Trail, part of the abandoned Midland Railway line, complete with its own section closed for repairs (no Bus Replacement Service here!). Crossing the impressive Headstone Viaduct we made our way up to Monsal Head for lunch on a bench with great views of the viaduct and the dale. Heading back, the white side of the Barrel Inn could be seen in the distance to incentivise us. Along the way we encountered a beautiful Peacock Butterfly, an abundance of sweet blackberries (that slowed our progress) and stopped for refreshments in the plague village of Eyam. Carrying heavy bottles of plague themed beers (‘Ring o’ Roses’ IPA and ‘Black Death’ stout) we made the final ascent up out of the village and along to the pub for drinks and a wonderful view.

We spent a convivial evening in the hostel where  Annie and Jeanette cooked us up a wonderful meal.

On Sunday, our very own tour guide, Natalia, led us on a Magical History Tour of Eyam, telling us how the plague reached the village and how it went into the first version of lockdown but without the hope of vaccines, furlough or Zoom.  We also went to view the most amazing Well Dressings in nearby Stoney Middleton – temporary works of art made from grasses, petals, berries and bark.

It was such a lovely, chilled out weekend with great company and thanks to Yvonne for stepping in to organise.

Authors: Cathy & David M