Everest Base Camp The Hard Way
- webmasteribex
- Dec 30, 2025
- 5 min read
Updated: Jan 1
Three ibexers, David, Susan and Phinella, recently joined a KE Adventure Travel trip to trek to Everest Base Camp via a couple of high passes (hence "the hard way").
Things didn't start too well. David and Susan arrived in Kathmandu a few days early but had almost continuous rain, Phinella's luggage got lost by the airline, and we had a 01:00 start to the trek due to a landslip which had closed the main road meaning a detour on back roads (which were unbelievably bad pot-holed roads!).
Arriving at Ramechhap early in the morning, our packed breakfasts from the Kathmandu hotel were eaten and a few hours later we boarded our DC10 aircraft for the short flight to Lukla (2800m). Lukla was the start of the trek. After coffee in a lodge whilst our bags were prepared to be carried by porters, the trek began (downhill!), the destination being a nice modern-looking lodge in Phakding (2610m). It was also the start of a vegetarian diet for 18 days and no alcohol.
The following day involved crossing several suspension bridges (not liked by David!) and a steep ascent to Namche Bazaar, the largest settlement by far on the way to Base Camp. Progress was slow - busy paths with hundreds of trekkers, long mule/horse trains carrying goods up the valley, lots of steps to climb, and a path detour due to a landslip.
With two nights at Namche, we had an acclimatisation walk to Everest View Hotel via the Tenzing Norgay Heritage Centre and lunch at Kungjung village after visiting the Kungjung Monastery (famous for its yeti skull). Back in Namche, David and Susan visited the Stupor View Cafe for apple pie. Phinella was finally reunited with her luggage.
Our route out of Namche was a valley towards the north-west and was relatively quiet. The majority of trekkers either go north to Gokyo or north-east to Dingboche. Overnight stops, each with an acclimatisation day, were Thameteng and Lungden.
From Lungden we had a very long day, going over the first of the high passes, the Renjo La (5362m). Breakfast was at 04:30 and we departed around 05:30 in the dark and the cold (-4°C). David had a double headtorch failure(!) but thankfully it soon started to become light. And not long after we were walking in snow, freshly fallen when David and Susan had been in rainy Kathmandu. Microspikes were needed and were essential for the next few days.
Many of those in our group were suffering from the altitude at this stage. You are forced to go at a snail pace when ascending, and it was a long way to the top of the pass. The top of the pass is not very large and was very busy. There are even phone-charging posts there powered by a solar panel.
The initial descent was quite steep and you had to be careful in the snow. Then it was quite a trudge to reach Gokyo village (4800m) which never seemed to get any closer. David and Susan arrived at our Gokyo lodge at 16:20, about 30 minutes behind Phinella. It was time for a late lunch!
The following day was an acclimatisation/rest day. The day after David and Phinella climbed Gokyo Ri (5357m), departing at 05:15 and returning at 09:30 for breakfast. Later that morning the group headed out to Dragnag (4780m) via a crossing of the Ngozumba Glacier, a fascinating glacial landscape complete with rockfalls!
From Dragnag it was another high pass day, this time the Cho La (5368m). Departure time was 05:20 in the dark after a 04:30 breakfast. A slight breeze meant it was very cold and the high altitude and steep path forced everyone to a snail pace. With the previous heavy snowfalls, this pass was worse than the Renjo La as it was steeper and having a few narrow exposed sections. Microspikes were a must!
The top of the pass was reached at 10:40. Time for a welcome snack before a long walk down to Dzongla, our next destination. The cafe in Dzongla was taken advantage of before dinner for lattes and brownies!
The following day was a fairly straight foward trek to Lobuche (4940m), finally turning into the Khumbu valley which contains the Khumbu glacier. Lobuche has the highest bakery in the world which does excellent coffee and great cakes.
"Objective day" began with a 07:45 departure walking beside the Khumbu glacier. An early lunch at Gorak Shep (5180m) was followed by the final stage to the Everest Base Camp (5364m), walking on a moraine high above the glacier. It was hard work ascending with the altitude, so much so that David decided to stop when EBC was in view. But Susan and Phinella were able to continue and reached the "EBC rock".
The day after Phinella climbed Kalar Patar (5400m) early in the morning with another member of our group. After breakfast it was a straight forward (downhill!) trek to Lobuche where we stayed the night again (and visited the bakery).
From Lobuche the itinerary had us trekking over Kongma La (5535m). But as most of the group were too tired to climb another high pass (would have been a very long day) and the snow conditions on it were not certain, this was abandoned and the whole group took the much easier route south to Dingboche (4400m). We were now out of the snow.
From Dingboche it was a relatively fast return to Lukla with overnight stops at Deboche, Monjo and Lukla. There were visits to monasteries on the way, as well as a pause in Namche Bazaar. On arrival in Lukla at our lodge wine and Nepalese beer were duly ordered! The following day we got lucky with our Lukla flight this time, being able to fly directly to Kathmandu.
This is a great trek for getting to EBC, using one of the quieter routes.
It is tough with the altitude (most of our group suffered at one time or
another), and can be more difficult if there is widespread snow. But
the scenery is spectacular which makes it worthwhile!
Author: David
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